Couture Autumn 2021

Despite abiding by a calendar dictated by seasons, couture can really go beyond these restrictions and be timeless. When watching a documentary about Coco Chanel, some of her dresses wouldn’t be out of place on the red carpet today, and this can be said about other couturiers who are no longer alive.

Nonetheless, each season, some shows are more relevant than others and sometimes a designer can still the show altogether. This was definitely the case of Pierpaolo Piccioli, who presented a ravishing collection for Maison Valentino.

It was so impressive that even brought tears to the eyes of Hamish Bowles, international editor at large for American Vogue magazine. Kate Young, a New York-based Celebrity stylist, mentions Piccioli in her Hello Fashion YouTube series, on the episode about Styling Selena Gomez’s “Revelación” Album Art.

“Pierpaolo at Valentino is the colour master of our time. In my opinion, there’s no better colourist.” Kate Young

The latest Valentino couture show is definitely a testimony of his ability to produce vivid and bold colours, and interestingly he asked all those present to wear white, which only made the colours stand out even more.

He also went out of his way to collaborate with artists, producing incredibly beautiful prints and some of the gowns will definitely be photographed at some point, I’m sure celebrity stylists are doing their best to secure them for their clients.

Schiaparelli has already achieved notoriety, after Bella Hadid got the attention of social media and magazines around the world at the latest Cannes Film Festival, with one couture dress designed by Daniel Roseberry.

Chanel also managed to touch the heart of many people on social media, when Laura Brown, editor-in-chief of InStyle magazine, who is engaged with Brandon Borror-Chappell, caught the bouquet thrown by the bride at the end of the show.

And I have to mention Philip Treacy, who did really impressive work for both Balenciaga and Maison Valentino. His hats totally blended in with the collections and added an extra layer of beauty, much like the cherry on the cake.

Christian Dior was not as exciting, which is not surprising considering the Maison insists on ignoring the lessons learnt by the pandemic, and presented a cruise show. Unfortunately, this is also the case for other renowned luxury brands.

It’s up to each brand to decide how to move forward (or backwards), but maybe producing less is not such a bad idea, as it gives much more time and space for designers to spread their wings.