Maybe we can no longer write about trends in a time when anything goes, but it's still possible to identify common denominators when going through the latest Autumn/Winter 2020 catwalk shows. I won't go into this topic again, as it was covered on a previous post.
The main point is to be clear that this is not an exhaustive list, but a personal selection according to my particular style. It doesn't include oversized coats, grand shoulders, super puffed sleeves, big chequer patterns and austere looks featured in quite a few collections.
Women seem to be getting tougher, there was a vast amount of leather and leather-like fabrics going on, and metallics seem to be transforming into protective shields. Balenciaga's show definitely had an apocalyptic feel to it, and demure or overtly austere looks contrasted with a dominatrix style of powerful women, as seen in Saint Laurent's collection.
All this and the predominance of black may be announcing some tough times ahead, but fortunately there were also a few romantic shows, with bright delicate fabrics such as soft velvet and flower patterns, alluding to the peaceful power of love.
It may have nothing to do with the future at all, but simply to the ability of capturing women in a myriad of different shades. It reminds me of the viral video "Be a Lady", capturing precisely the conflicting messages we receive throughout our life, as if there was always something wrong.
It feels good to finally embrace women in all their full glory, so that each of us can choose who to be and how to live without any unwelcome recommendations. Having said that, it’s definitely worth listening to constructive criticism from someone who loves us and knows us very well.
But in the end it’s really up to us. What matters most is to be genuine, above all being able to maintain an uncompromising honesty with ourselves.
Paco Rabanne, Andrew Gn, Miu Miu, Tom Ford and Givenchy
Teddy Bear Coats
Prada, Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Rochas and Stella McCartney
Loewe, Chloé, Richard Quinn, Giambattista Valli and Brandon Maxwell
Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Balmain, Roksanda and Stella McCartney
Balenciaga, Andrew Gn, Miu Miu, Lanvin and Chanel
Prada, Etro, Céline, Marc Jacobs and Philipp Plein
Gucci, Chanel, Elie Saab, Saint Laurent and Giorgio Armani
Philipp Plein, Elie Saab, Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel
The Little Black Dress
Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Elie Saab, Chanel and Alberta Ferretti